And vineyards welcome guests who call ahead. Complete Video Script. The cathedral's interior showcases the work of the greatest sculptors of every era — Pisano, Donatello, Michelangelo, and Bernini — and the Piccolomini Library features a series of 15th-century frescoes chronicling the adventures of Siena's philanderer-turned-pope, Aeneas Piccolomini. If this sounds good to you, choose a place that advertises itself specifically as an agriturismo. I hope you've enjoyed our taste of Tuscany — from rich and exuberant Siena to the rustic and equally rich countryside. Rick: Tell me about these dogs. Over 2,500 years ago, long before anybody had heard of Julius Caesar, and back when Rome was just a small town, the Etruscan civilization flourished in this part of Italy. The fortified farmhouses and castles of the Chianti region are reminiscent of medieval days, when this was part of the battlefield where Florence and Siena fought. Grand as Siena's cathedral is, it's actually the unfinished rump of a failed vision. Rick: For centuries! The first participants to book choose one of seven itineraries — then others join until the van fills. This is wine country, home of the famous and much-loved Brunello di Montalcino. Roberto: Absolutely, it's the idea that you have to eat quality and not quantity. Rick: Didn't understand a word he said. While the actual Palio packs the city, you can more easily see the horse-race trials on any of the three days before the main event (usually at 9:00 and after 19:00, free seats in bleachers). Roberto: Absolutely. Rick: That's nice. Today the stony walls are peaceful…growing ever more graceful with age. Annie Adair — an American who fell in love with Volterra…and one of its men — works here as a guide, and she's joining us to help out. Terms of Service | Privacy, Tuscany, Italy: Chianti Wine and Crete Senesi Regions. The enticing array of pecorino cheeses, prosciutto, and salami are all an ideal complement to what this family believes is the best wine in Italy. Lines can be long here — before buying a ticket, check to see if there's a long wait. We're meeting Fabio and his prized dogs Nic and Susi to hunt the beloved truffles — one of this region's specialties. Then we'll head into wine country for a little dolce vita under the Tuscan sun. This is the land of two beloved local wines, Brunello Demonte Chino and Vino Nobile. As mentioned, Orvieto is a popular place to rent, but it is on the outskirts of Tuscany. They celebrate the life of one of Siena's hometown boys — who became Pope Pius II. Tuscany seems to be every Italy connoisseur's favorite region, and for good reason. A short and scenic drive. Siena and Tuscany’s Wine Country. Thanks for joining us. As evening falls, we gather for a cultural experience. Since 1953, your wine tasting host and very passionate tour guide has been…Adamo. (30 minutes) Can't find the episode you're looking for? And high above, playful cherubs dangle their feet. As they share their Brunello, it's clear the family appreciates the happiness their work brings to wine lovers not only here but all over the world. It's a local feast with everything farm made here in Tuscany. This tomb — cut out of solid tuff rock — was discovered by the farmer's grandfather. Across Europe, festival traditions go back centuries, and are filled with time-honored pageantry and ritual. Start planning your … Had it been completed, this square would have been not a parking lot, but the nave itself. Crowning yet another ridge, Montepulciano welcomes visitors with views, villas, and vino. Like in any Italian city, the people of Siena are out and making the scene. Dating from 300 B.C. While the Palio takes Siena by storm just two days a year, the charms of the Tuscan countryside can be enjoyed all year long. Adamo: Ora vi faccio vedere, come…molto antico…attenzione! Rick: So, it's a tradition they gather right there? Italy is the size of California, and the region of Tuscany grabs the center. Tuscany offers a dolce vita mix of hearty cuisine, fascinating history, and gentle beauty. And, like so much of what she serves, the limoncello comes from her farm. Roberto: They smell it. Travel with Rick on this video guide to Siena, Italy and find out what to do on your next trip. That's light and nice, with the truffle. But there are wineries that still have the vine from a century ago. The crenellations along the roof were never intended to hide soldiers, just to symbolize power. While tourists pack the more famous places, little off-beat gems like this remain overlooked, and are great places for enjoying the traditional culture. Annie: So, if the city seems crowed today, just imagine it in the Middle Ages, when there were four times as many people living within the city walls…
While some are more refined than others, expect muddy roads, manure smells, and tractor engines firing up in the wee hours. Today, the hospital and its cellars are filled with fascinating exhibits (well-described in English). UPCOMING EPISODES. Italy packs 55 million people into an area about the size of Arizona. Alabaster has traditionally been a specialty here. Montepulciano's most popular attraction isn't made of stone — it's the famous wine, Vino Nobile. Karel: This is Rick feigning relaxation. A series of idealized frescos show medieval Siena's innovative health care and progressive social welfare system at work. You'll twist up on cypress-lined gravel lanes to this perch, which looks out over an expanse of vineyards and Montalcino in the distance. Characteristic tavernas serve local dishes in a grotto-chic atmosphere — this one [Taverna San Giuseppe] under a fine old medieval vault. But Siena was so hilly, there wasn't enough flat ground to support such a enormous church. We'll enjoy an aperitivo on a great square, marvel at exquisite art, eat cheese in an Etruscan cellar, settle into a farmhouse B&B, learn to make pici pasta, taste one of the world's finest wines, prepare for a festival, and go to the races. The Palio wild horse race in Siena, Italy; Tuscany's wine country. Roberto: Oh, I love the passeggiata. It had a population of about 50,000 people — that was one of the biggest cities in Europe — about as big as Paris. [Now I'll show you…how…very antique [the method]…watch out! Reservations are a good idea here. Rick: In Italian, tartufo. Roberto: More varieties — better. Give it back! The dogs are given two commands: "Dov'è" means "Where is it?" And keep in mind that finding a room in Siena is tough at Palio time. The smaller stones are part of the medieval city wall, which incorporated parts of the much older Etruscan wall. We've got appointments with two wineries — a large corporate winery first, and then a smaller family-run farm. Rick: They smell it out? Sienese society cared for its poor. Rick: I like it as simple, because you can taste the oil. Annie: …and they would have to build wooden additions and balconies hanging over the streets so it was a tangled mess of balconies and roofs. Rick: No, don't eat it!…He ate it! With a few bottles of Orvieto Classico in our trunk, we're ready for more hill towns. The snorting horses and their nervous riders line up, jockeying for the best spot. Reserve ahead for tours and tastings. Roberto: Yes. The exquisite marble floor is paved with Bible scenes, intricate patterns, and allegories. Isabella is a patient and engaging teacher. Guides take visitors on an informative stroll through the entire wine-making process. Roberto: It's wonderful...with pasta. With Roberto, my passeggiata includes a little history. Others are simple and rustic, offering casual farmhouse hospitality and the smell of whatever is being produced. Each year 70,000 bottles of this producer's prized Brunello work their way through this exacting process. Rick: How are your fava beans doing? Although Volterra is famously quiet late at night, this place is full of action. The richly ornamented facade bristles with ornamentation: Its striking mosaics framed by patriarchs and prophets, saints, and gargoyles. Then, as if a reward for all the kneading and rolling, we sit down together and enjoy the fruits of our labor. On the outskirts of the town of Torrenieri, this is a quintessential family-run winery, with an emphasis on quality over quantity (only 20,000 bottles a year). Rick: Like here? Rick: And eat in the season. Rick: I can see why. There's more tasting as the wine continues its long journey to the bottle. A highlight of the parade is the actual banner, or "palio." Crossing from Umbria into Tuscany, our next stop is Cortona. In the "room of peace" the republic's council met under instructive 14th-century propaganda showing the effects of good and bad government — with a message that seems remarkably applicable today. Tuscany Travel Guide by Rick Steves For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . This museum, opposite the Duomo, operated for centuries as a hospital, foundling home, and pilgrim lodging. It's a labor-intensive industry…but right now the grapes are doing all the work as they age in their oak casks. Thank you! Between Florence and Rome is the region of Tuscany. We have an appropriately aristocratic guesthouse to call home in town — and thankfully, it's just around the corner. My Account. [Products here are from Siena.] Get a cocktail — and, you know, it's not a cheap cocktail — but it comes with lots of nice munchies and…the best view in town. To see sculptors in action, drop by the powdery Alab'Arte workshop, where Roberto and Giorgio turn rock into art. Siena's City Hall (Palazzo Pubblico), still the seat of city government, symbolizes a republic independent from the pope and the Holy Roman Emperor. A challenge for me in my guidebook writing is to take a slice of a town — like Volterra's main drag — and, with help from local guides, give travelers a peek into the culture. It's a hands-on experience — and it's great to have a coach. Un Nobile — senta, Dottore. Tuscany is named after the Etruscan people, who lived here centuries before this region was conquered by ancient Rome. For days, processions break out across the city. You see on the ground floor. see our FAQ. We'll visit Volterra before checking out Pienza and Montepulciano. And St. Jerome caresses the crucifix like a violinist lost in heavenly music. We're grating some of those exquisitely pungent truffles on our pasta. Make a point to get away from the crowds and enjoy a quiet moment with the timeless magic of Siena. The unfinished Duomo glumly looks on, wishing the city hadn't run out of money for its facade. Sprawling before the City Hall backdrop, the gently tilted piazza offers the perfect invitation to loiter. The cathedral we see today was intended only to be a transept, or wing, off the envisioned nave, or main part of the church. ... Rick Steves' Europe. Siena offers a delicious range of opportunities to enjoy the hearty Tuscan cuisine. Each of the scenes is framed with an arch, as if opening a window into the real world. This is good travel — a crossroads of American and Italian cultures, eating and drinking together, while creating memories of a lifetime. How to choose? Until next time, la vita è bella — that's "life is beautiful." Rick: Is that right? And we cap our meal by descending into their ancient Etruscan wine cellar. So much to see, so little time. Roberto: Every year. In the nearby hills, a flock of free-range sheep, and a few noble goats, head back to munch spring grass after being milked. Regardless of the size of your group, they charge per person, so these minibus tours are economical. It looks out over an expanse of vineyards with the hilltown of Montalcino on the horizon. It's worth strolling through the dramatic halls to see fascinating frescoes and portraits extolling Siena's greats, saints, and the city-as-utopia, when this proud town understandably considered itself the vanguard of Western civilization. This intentionally rough brick work patiently waits for its final marble veneer…which will likely never arrive. The message: A community ruled by a just government enjoys peace, prosperity…and is a great place to raise your kids. Young and old gather to prepare these bristly treats. We were on the bus from Florence to Rome on Thanksgiving. We can remove the first video in the list to add this one. The price is reasonable, since he assembles groups of up to eight people to share the experience...and the cost. If you're open to branching out of Tuscany, when we were on the flight coming home from Tuscany years ago, the arty hip guy sitting next to us said "Tuscany is so yesterday. It's Siena, the Palio, and a whole lot more! The museum's extensive collection of urns — with subjects lounging as if munching grapes with the gods at some heavenly banquet — is a reminder that the Etruscans believed you'd have fun in the afterlife. Under the oak tree…enjoying the view…sharing today's experiences, and dreaming about tomorrow's — the relaxing vibe is a vacation dream come true. Sicily serves up a full-bodied and tasty travel experience. Ah, smell that…
Medieval Siena was a self-assured republic, and this tower stands like an exclamation point — an architectural declaration of independence from both the pope and the emperor. We didn't stray from her directions and were rewarded with lovely drives through Tuscany and on the way to Orvieto all on back roads. The city, rather than the Church, ran this hospital, illustrating how far secular society had come in Siena by the 1400s. For a more in-depth wine experience, Annie and Francesco offer excursions into the heart of Chianti and can even organize Tuscan weddings for Americans. So the taste of the grapes, and then taste of the wine, then, is different. The aging process carries on in oak barrels. Siena's claim to caloric fame is panforte — a chewy local delicacy that tempts even fruitcake haters. There's something charming…almost seductively charming about this region and its rustic good living. So the next trip we went to Perugia and I have to say it was lovely! Twenty-five hundred years ago, Volterra was one of the most important Etruscan cities. Alab'Arte offers a fun peek into the art of alabaster. Rick: Wow. Rick: Elegant? Rick: So, under all of this, there's Roman ruin just like this? You want get to the heart of the Tuscany drive until you're about 1 1/2 hours in. Complete Video Script. First, we'll learn about the original Tuscans — the ancient Etruscans. Isabella: We'll recognize that. Aristocratic countryside elegance survives in Tuscany. Benjamin Franklin once wrote, “Wine is constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy.” In this clip from Rick Steves’ Europe, I visit Tuscany and confirm this to be true. This time we're in Italy for the wildest horserace in the world and we're not alone! Afterwards, Victoria lovingly tends her aging rounds of cheese. Jump to bottom. Rick: The way of the French. Towns like Volterra were truly city-states — they were fiercely independent and relatively democratic. Year round it's the perfect temperature for wine…and the perfect humidity for cheese. Adding our vote for Roberto! A Nobile — taste, sir.]. Rick: Siena!? Adamo: Si, si…molto feminili…quello di Slovonia, rovere più maschio, eh? In the springtime the rolling fields are splashed with colorful flowers. Its population hasn't changed for centuries: It's still around 50,000. Roberto: Well, they like a lot of moisture. Every generation. Complete Video Script. All the Italians love the passeggiata. They love to share their family's products with the public. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. Roberto: Yes. She starts by pouring the milk into a big kettle to warm. To go beyond perfection we'll try some from a bottle in their tasting room. All over town, shops tempt you with edible Sienese specialties — gourmet pasta, vintage Chianti, wild-boar prosciutto…. 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